East on the green

SINGAPORE - The east side of Singapore may be known for its relaxed vibe and balmy air, but it's surprisingly lacking when it comes to contemporary dining in a verdant setting. Aside from The Coastal Settlement in the far reaches of Changi, and the small stretch where Playground @ Big Splash sits, there are few others that offer a tranquil park setting for dining that is now common in other parts of Singapore like Punggol, Bukit Timah or Dempsey.

Enter Cafe Melba, a laidback Melbourne-inspired eatery hidden away in Goodman Arts Centre, and facing a pretty green field on which children and pets are free to run around. Since it opened in July, it's become a hit with residents in the area who pack the place, particularly on weekends.

 

Built on what was formerly a basketball court, the space is clad in glass walls, with an open kitchen on one end, and a bar on the other. Pops of colours on the soft furnishing give it a cheery vibe.

The kitchen - helmed by group executive chef New Zealander Kacey Whaitiri-Roberts - dishes out simple, comfort fare the likes of pizzas, pastas, braised lamb shanks and brunch classics such as eggs Benedict and smoked salmon with scrambled eggs on toast. There is even a beef rendang (served with chips), made from the managing director's Malay mother-in-law's family recipe.

On weekdays, the all-day breakfast menu offers just three items, but they are ample enough: A fruit salad (S$10), free range eggs Benedict (S$16) and a hearty "Full Melba" cooked breakfast (S$22) that includes eggs, bacon, roasted cherry tomatoes, beans, mushrooms and toast.

The serving of eggs Benedict was excellent - wobbly, runny and with a generous drizzle of hollandaise sauce. On weekends, the brunch menu is larger and includes, among other things, a stack of sturdy pancakes (S$14) that hungrily soak up the maple syrup and berry compote that they are served with.

At lunch, I tried a bowl of vongole (clams) with squid ink pasta (S$17 for 500g), which was unfortunately, bland. The supple handmade pasta also wasn't a good match for the chewy clams. In contrast, the braised lamb shank (S$30) was full of flavour and utterly comforting with its silky mashed potatoes and minted peas.

The beef rendang (S$18), in true Singaporean fashion, was full of spicy kick and redolent with the citrusy endnotes of lemongrass and lime leaves. As someone who doesn't need rice more than once a week, I was thrilled that it was served with crisp shoestring fries. A special gas pizza oven turns out the Italian pies in extremely high heat. And though our Parma ham and rocket pizza (starting from S$18 for a nine-inch pie) was quite satisfying, it didn't have the same blistered and charred crust that you get with a wood-fire oven.

Still, there's plenty on the menu to return for - along with a priceless setting.


Cafe Melba

Where: 90 Goodman Road, Blk N #01-56 Goodman Arts Centre
Telephone: 6440 6068
Opening hours: Weekdays 10am to 10pm, Weekends and Public Holidays 8.30am to 10pm