New colonial

SINGAPORE - Michel Lu's second eatery, after his departure from the Prive Group, takes its name from the vintage brass mail chute outside The Ascott Raffles Place. The chute is an original feature of the building, once known as Asia Insurance Building, which was designed by Singaporean architect Dr Ng Keng Siang in the early 1950s.

Dr Ng was a member of the Royal Institute Of British Architects and designed the building in the spirit of the prevailing Modern Movement of the time. It was this colonial-tinged history that inspired Lu to offer the modern British fare that The Royal Mail now serves.

And what's British cuisine without a roast with all the trimmings? Here, the USDA prime roast is served in individual portions of three sizes: The 200g English Cut (S$48), a 280g Classic Cut (S$58) and an extra thick 340g Royal Mail portion (S$68).

To get the best value, go at lunch, when S$58 will score you a three-course meal featuring the 200g English Cut. On my plate was a luscious slab of beef, cooked to a lovely pink, seasoned nicely and topped with a generous drizzle of slightly sticky gravy.

The roast spring chicken (S$36) has its crisp skin a little over-salted but an otherwise succulent dish that would hit the spot when you're craving simple, comfort food.

A decidedly un-messy Eton Mess (S$13) was served in an elegant glass and topped with shards of hazelnut crunch and salted caramel. This was a lovely sweet to end a meal, but I couldn't help but wish it were bigger and, well, messier - the way a true English pudding is meant to be.

The Royal Mail Restaurant and Bar

Where: The Ascott Raffles Place 2 Finlayson Green

Telephone: 6509 3589

Opening hours:

Monday to Friday 12pm to 3pm, 6.30pm to 11pm Saturday 6.30pm to 11pm (Closed on Sunday)